Reliable tires

SCHWALBE MARATHON, the name itself is simply legendary in the bicycle touring world!
It is made for extreme bicycle touring and is favourite among touring cyclist around the world.
You can use it for both on or off road expedition. The tire is really fast.
I have them fixed to my folding & last touring bike..until now (touch wood) it has not puncture.
So, invest in good tires like Schwalbe that use anti-puncture compound or layers. They really works.
It may be a bit expensive but it worth it because changing tires during cycling ride is very troublesome especially when you are fully loaded.

Tips of the day

This is one of the most practical tips that I have learned, practised and always pass it on to other cyclist-

"Always quickly change to lower/smaller gear before you stop your bike. This is to ensure that you are in easy gear before you starting out again"

When starting out and you are using the clipless pedal (e.g SPD), you will need to push the pedal with one leg so that the bike will move forward before you insert the cleat of the other leg into the other pedal. And you can only easily push the pedal when the gear is low. How low is the gear is really depends on your preference.

The common mistakes by the novice rider is that they try to push the pedal in high/big gear. And when they are out of balance and unable to insert the cleat, the fall down.

Go try it yourself and you'll see that this is very useful.

source: photo from howstuffworked.com

How to Effectively Shift Your Bicycle's Gears

Fundamental number one: the purpose of gears is to make the bike easier to pedal up hills and enable you to pedal down them. The idea is to maintain a constant pace on the pedals and change your gears according to the wind and terrain conditions. Once you find your pace, that rhythm, you can ride all the way to California if you want to.

Fundamental number two: you must be pedaling when you change gears. That's because the chain has to be moving in order for the derailleurs to "de-rail" the chain from sprocket to sprocket. That's also why it's best not to click the shifters when you’re sitting still. Besides stretching the gear cables, the bike immediately changes gears when you start off again, usually with some very disconcerting noises. Shifting your gears while sitting still is like fingernails on a chalkboard to your bike mechanic.

Now back to the gear shifting tips.

Tip one: Pedal at a brisk pace. It’s better to pedal at a brisk pace using the easier to pedal gears than to muscle the harder gears more slowly. This technique will increase your stamina over a longer ride and will enable you to accelerate more quickly if you need to "jump". I promise you’ll still get a good leg workout. A brisk pace on the pedals also improves the shifting.

Tip two: And this is hugely important. Lighten the pressure on the pedals when you shift. Keep them turning, but don't be muscling down on them while you shift. Lightening the pressure on the pedals significantly smoothes the gear change, reduces those grinding noises when you shift, and lengthens the life of your drive train. You’ll have to anticipate your shifts a bit as you approach the hills, but it only takes a beat to change your gears on a hill once you get your timing down.

Tip three: Avoid using the small ones in the front with the small ones in the back. Another way to say the same thing is, when you’re chain is on the inboard ring on the front, it should be on the inboard cogs in the back. Similarly, when you’re chain is on the outboard ring on the front, it should be on the outboard cogs in the back.

Tip Four: Remember to shift back to a low gear before you stop so that you’ll be in an easy gear for starting out again.

When to change gears will be pretty obvious. You’ll want to shift to an easier pedaling gear (i.e. down shift to a lower number) when the bike gets hard to pedal up hills, and then shift to a higher gear (higher number) so your pedals can catch up when you go down one. Thus, we have come full circle on our gear shifting discussion. Gears make it easier to go up hills and let you pedal down them.

Source: Intown Bicycles/photo from bicycleparts.us

On the verge of cycling burnout? Remember that it's ultimately about fun

You have been cycling regularly for a long time, maybe even for several years. Once you've cycled long enough to experience the stimulating effects of cycling, it's hard to turn back.

You feel so good, you never want to let this feeling slide. Your body is used to its daily fix of exercise, better circulation, weight control, increased strength and calming endorphins.

Yet cycling, like many other pursuits, can be carried too far from habit to obsession. Perhaps you also notice a leveling-off in your conditioning and times in events, and you don't see progress or improvement as you use to. You also seem to find excuses for training, you terminate training rides early, and you make excuses not to go out, even on beautiful days.

What can you do to treat and prevent this burnout?

When cycling is no longer a joy and a release from the pressures of the world, and a sense of personal accomplishment is missing, it can get dull very quickly. Fortunately, there are plenty of ways to add variety and keep cycling lively and challenging.

If you are cycling in a rut or want to prevent burnout, I have put together some techniques to bring back life into your cycling.

Social cycling: Miles and time go by quickly when you are talking and cycling. Get together with some friends for a ride, and make sure you stick to the pace of the slowest rider in the group. Riding once or twice per week with a group that is slower than you is a good break from the routine of hard riding, but if done more than twice per week, you may lose speed. Don't train too often with cyclists who are too fast for you. If you can't talk with the people in the group, you are doing speedwork.

Rest: Schedule easy days, including one or more days off from cycling each week. Many cyclists believe they will lose fitness if they miss a day or two of cycling. But that's simply not true. In fact, studies show that scheduling a few easy days (called tapering) before a race or tour will help you perform better.

Reset your goals: Burnout may mean it is time to set some new goals. Think about what you have already accomplished in cycling and what you want to achieve over the next year or so. You'll keep a more positive mental attitude if you are continually setting and meeting goals.

Cross-train: How about alternating your cycling program with a completely different form of exercise? If you are really tired and burned out, try another physical exercise that is fun or learn a new one.

Listen to your body: At some point, your body will tell you to slow down. Everyone needs some easy time. If you feel tired or sluggish, take it easy. You may be overtraining. Or you may need to skip a morning ride in order to get more rest. You may have to look at your diet to ensure that you are getting enough carbohydrates. While in training, your diet should consist of at least 60% carbohydrates. Listen to your body.

Add variety: An effective way to treat burnout is to add variety to your cycling program. You don't wear the same shirt everyday, do you? So why ride the same course every day? Why do the same program of mileage or intensity over and over?

Reward yourself: Look back to where you started, when you could not ride for one hour. Give yourself credit for what you have accomplished. Negative thoughts can sap positive energy. When you think you're not making progress, look at how much you've achieved!

Train, don't strain: Don't listen to the pros when they say, "No pain, no gain." Cycle as you feel. As you increase your distance, you also will want to get a feeling for speed and sprinting for a short distance, as appropriate. Don't kill yourself; rather accelerate and begin to feel out your entire range of cycling potential. The more you are aware, the better in touch with the variety and fun of the sport, the better the cyclist you'll be.

Have fun: Don't lose sight of the best reason to cycle it is fun! Cycling regularly makes you feel good mentally and physically. It helps you develop a positive self-image. Try to keep things in balance and in harmony, and let cycling enhance, not rule, your life.

Finally, ask yourself: Is the earth going to open up and swallow you if you only ride for 30 minutes today instead of one hour? Who is really going to know or care in five years whether you met your quota or not? In five years, even you won't know or care.

The only thing that will be important then is that you are still cycling, are still healthy, and having fun. Maintaining a flexible routine now is the best assurance that this will happen. Make cycling a healthy habit, a commitment you make to yourself for a healthy lifetime.

Source: active.com/cycling/ by Edmund R. Burke, Ph.D.

Proper Bike Fit Can Prevent Pain and Injury

Whether you are riding to the corner store or across the country, you should be comfortable on your bike. If you have neck, back, or knee pain, saddle sores, or hand or foot numbness, your bicycle probably doesn't fit you properly. Good bike fit can also improve your pedaling efficiency and aerodynamics and actually make you faster.

Here are some common complaints and possible solutions.

Knee pain is usually associated with a seat position that is too high or low or far forward or back. Improper bike shoe or cleat position can also cause knee pain.

• A seat that is too high will cause pain in the back of the knee.
• A seat too high will also cause your hips to rock side to side, which may cause discomfort.
• A seat that is too low or too far forward may cause pain in the front of the knee.
• Improper foot position on the pedal (or improper cleat alignment) can cause pain on the inside or outside of your knees.

Individual anatomy may also result in knee pain. Cyclists with slight differences in leg length may have knee pain because the seat height is only adjusted for one side. Shoe inserts or orthotics can help correct this problem.

Another cause of knee pain is using too high a gear. Try to use a gear that allows you to pedal quickly, from 70 to 100 strokes per minute.

Neck pain is another common cycling complaint, and is usually the result of riding a bike that is too long or having handlebars that are too low. Tight hamstring and hip flexor muscles can also cause neck pain by forcing your spine to round or arch, and your neck to hyperextend.

Foot pain or numbness is often the result of wearing soft-soled shoes. Special shoes designed for cycling have stiff soles that distribute pressure evenly over the pedal. This also helps you pedal more efficiently. Foot pain can also be caused by using too high a gear, which results in more pressure where the foot meets the pedal.

Hand pain or numbness can be prevented by wearing padded cycling gloves that provide cushioning. You should ride with your elbows slightly bent, not straight or locked. Bent elbows will act as shock absorbers and help absorb the bumps in the road. Changing hand positions on the handlebars can also reduce pressure and pain.

Saddle sores: Finding a bike seat that fits you well is imperative.

There are dozens of bike saddles designed for every rider and riding style. Saddles come in a variety of materials from gel to leather. There are women-specific saddles that are shorter and wider to accommodate a woman's wider pelvis. Others have a center cutout to relieve pressure on soft tissues. You should try several to find one that fits you well.

Your cycling clothing can also cause saddle sores. Cyclists typically wear shorts made without seams — and no underwear — to eliminate sources of chafing and pressure points. Cycling shorts also have padded liners that provide more comfort than street clothes.

Source: About.com/Sports Medicine/ by Elizabeth Quinn

Ride, Don't Train

As the season gets into full swing, you may find yourself working to achieve this year's cycling goals. This is tremendous mistake.

Just as rules are made to be broken, beer is meant to be drunk and tubulars are meant to be punctured on the very first ride, so are goals made to be missed.

The world is a beautiful place, full of endless possibilities. Every glorious day is an experience yet to be had, a sensation yet to be felt, a cheese yet to be tested. Why then rule out all of these possibilities by focusing your entire existence on getting a top-10 finish in the Cat 4 field....on July 12th?

Obviously some people need goals. These people are called "professional cyclist," and they exist to entertain us. We thrill to their victories, and we laugh uproariously at their defeats. However, while we should enjoy the exploits of professional cyclists, we should not seek to emulate them.

Does Alberto Contador spend his leisure time cleaning people's teeth or folding folding clothes at Banana Republic? No, he does not. We do these things because we're paid to do them. Why should we want to do this job for free?

Even worse, some cyclists actually pay other people to help them experience the needless stress of being a professional. These people are called "coaches," and they set goals for you that are even more masochistic than the ones you might have set for yourself. This is like Alberto Contador paying your manager at Banana Republic to berate him for his poor folding technique.

Cycling is fun. Whether your prefer to race, or tour, or just get on your bike and wander, it's all volunteer work, and the only way you can really lose is to hurt yourself. Setting goals serves only to reduce the limitless vista that is cycling enjoyment to a tiny silver of possibility in which you have maybe fifty-fifty chance of succeeding. And I don't like those odds.

Source: Bicycling Magazine/ The Bike Snob

Yes I've tried this before and it works!

Clean your helmet - "To make a stinky helmet fresh again wear it in the shower! Get a good shampoo lather going on your head, put your helmet on and massage your scalp with the helmet for a few minutes. Then, give it a good rinse." Tom Smith, NY

Source: Cycling Tips/ bikyle.com

The Seven Most Common Mistakes Made by Newbie Cyclists

Extract from Ken Kifer's Bike Pages....

1. Mistake #1 - Seat Too Low
2. Mistake #2 - Feet Improperly On Pedal
3. Mistake #3 - Using The Wrong Gear
4. Mistake #4 - Not Stoping For A STOP Sign
5. Mistake #5 - Riding In The Wrong Lane
6. Mistake #6 - Not Using Headlight & Tailight At Night
7. Mistake #7 - Never Listen

you can click here to read the detail

I am adding this in :

1. Riding a wrong bicycle size - too small or too big. probably misinformed by the bike shop. This will hurt your body & riding.
   
2. Wearing earphone. Must be alert all the time of your surrounding.
   
3. Wearing dark colours while riding at night. Make yourself visible to the other road users.
   
4. Not drinking because not feeling thirsty. ..Hydrate or Die!?
   
5. Not eating breakfast because don't want to feel full while riding. Big Mistake! You'll get bonked sooner or later.
   
6. Using wrong gear- too much spin on flat road. Get tired easily & you will be left behind. A little grind won't hurt you.
   
7. Too obsessed with brand name & bike weight! Ah...the wannabes!! yes, they are everywhere!
   

Source : Ken Kifer's Bike Page

When to Use Rear Brake

Skilled cyclists use the front brake alone probably 95% of the time, but there are instances when the rear brake is preferred:

• Slippery surfaces. On good, dry pavement, it is generally impossible to skid the front wheel by braking. On slippery surfaces, however it is possible to do so. It is nearly impossible to recover from a front wheel skid, so if there is a high risk of skidding, you're better off controlling your speed with the rear brake.
• 
  
• Bumpy surfaces. On rough surfaces, your wheels may actually bounce up into the air. If there is a chance of this, don't use the front brake. If you apply the front brake while the wheel is airborne, it will stop, and coming down on a stopped front wheel is a Very Bad Thing.
• 
  
• Front flat. If you have tire blowout or a sudden flat on the front wheel, you should use the rear brake alone to bring yourself to a safe stop. Braking a wheel that has a deflated tire can cause the tire to come off the rim, and is likely to cause a crash.
• 
  
• Broken cable...or other failure of the front brake.
• 
  
• Long mountain descents, when your front brake hand may get tired, or you may be at risk of overheating a rim and blowing a tire. For this situation, it is best to alternate between the front and rear brake, but not to use them both at once.

Source: Harris Cyclery / Sheldon Brown / photo from bikeradar

10 Tips for Fast Cornering on a Bike

When I first began cycling, I felt nervous about cornering on descents and so felt of myself as a ‘bad descender’. However, over time, you imperceptibly pick up on how to corner, learning to understand how you can corner faster without risking falling off.

1. Practise on Hills You know well.

On hills that you use regularly, try each time to apply the brakes a little less. This is the best way of gaining more confidence to descend quicker. Gradually, you realise a reasonable speed for descending corners.

2. Braking before a tight turn.

It can be dangerous applying brakes in the middle of a tight turn, you can easily lose balance. It is better to begin braking before the turn and then accelerate out of the turn.

3. Use Both Brakes.

Braking lightly with both brakes is more effective than pressing hard on front or rear brakes. It is good to also try and use the on off technique. This prevents brakes overheating, useful for long descents.

4. Lean the Bike.

This takes a bit of practice but, if you lean the bike into a corner, you will be surprised at how much you can corner without the need to brake. Leaning the bike is much better than just leaning the body.

5. Ride With Experienced Riders.

If you ride with quick descenders you will gain an idea of how to descend. You could try following their ‘race line’; not necessarily at their speed, but you will get confidence from following their descent.

6. Push Down on the Tyres.

If cornering in the rain it is good to push down on the tyres to provide a better grip.

7. Use Body to Slow Down.

If you sit upright the air resistance provides a natural braking mechanism. This can be better than using brakes, especially on corners. As you sit up, also press down on the brakes.

8. Best Line.

It is important to understand the best line to take on a descent. This involves anticipating corners and moving into position to reduce the curve of the bend. To get the best line it is necessary that the road behind is clear, to enable you to move out into the middle of the road before cutting back in.

9. Avoid Taking Unnecessary Risks.

Even in a race, I would rather lose the odd second than end up in casualty with a broken leg. If it is wet, I take hills much slower. The potential gains of going quick are much less than the potential cost of taking that extra risk. If I was a professional cyclist I would probably have a different attitude.

10. Pressing inside knee on Top Tube.

If you press the inside knee on the top tube, it creates greater stability when you corner. Instinctively people often push out the knee, like a motorcycle race, but this actually creates greater instability.

11. Practice with disc Wheels.

If you are a time trialist and race with disc wheels, you will notice it is more difficult to handle with a disc wheel and time trial bars. This is why it is important to get used to riding a time trial bike in training.

In my opinion, most of the best style & technique of cornering can be seen in MotoGP race except that the inside knee should be pressed to the top tube (as per #10) instead of push it out like the motorcycle racer always do. But be extra careful when you are carrying panniers. In normal case, when you are on descent, with the extra load, you might be going very fast. Therefore, the best option is always to sit upright & slow down by hitting both front & rear brakes when you are approaching the tight corner. Better be save than sorry! - mattouring.

Source: Cycling Info / photo from britishcycling.org.uk

Get faster by riding slowly

Are you a pupil of the ‘no pain, no gain’ school of training? New research says you’ll get fitter faster if you take it easy.

Sounds good doesn't it? But we're not quite saying you can get fitter by sitting on the sofa. The trick is to ride in the least taxing of your training zones, the levels of effort that actually have an effect on your fitness. Let's kick off by taking a look at them.

What are training zones?

Training zones are different levels of exertion designed to improve your fitness. What you might not realise is that it’s Zone 1, the easiest level, and not flat-out Zone 3 where you should be spending most of your ride time.

How are the training zones defined?

Zone 1: This is the endurance base from 60% of your maximum heart rate to around 78-80%. This zone builds endurance, the economical use of fats and carbohydrates for fuel and allows good technique to be practised. You'll want to spend up to 80% of your time here.

Zone 2: Where pace is moderately hard, where lactate is created from an increased use of carbohydrate but it is not hard enough to cause fatigue suddenly. This zone occurs around 79-89% of your maximum heart rate and it helps athletes judge pace, convert lactate and move at higher velocities. Aim for around 10-12% of your weekly workouts here.

Zone 3: The high intensity lactate accumulation zone is above 89-90% of your maximum heart rate. This is peak effort stuff that hurts. It provides a maximal stimulus that is, or simulates, competition or above competition pace. Spend no more than 10% of your training time here.

How to work out your maximum heart rate

To make sure you ride in the right zone, you’ll need to work out your max heart rate.

Time trial effort varies between riders but it is approximately 88-91% of your maximum heart rate for a 10-mile tiem trial, and 85-88% for a 25-miler.

To get an estimate of your maximum heart rate, you need to divide your average heart rate over 10 miles, eg 165, by 0.88 and 0.91 (187.5 and 181) and do the same for your 25-mile tiem trial average, eg 160, using 0.85 and 0.88 (188 and 181).

The average maximum heart rate of all four figures is 184, and this can then be used to calculate your three training zones:

• Zone 1: less than 78-80% of your maximum heart rate (<147)
• Zone 2: 80-88% of your maximum heart rate (149-160).
• Zone 3: above 88-90% of your maximum heart rate (>161)

How does this apply to me? I’m not a time trial specialist!

Yes, it sounds too good to be true: ride slowly to go faster. But a recent study has added support to sports scientists’ claims that spending more time exercising comfortably, rather than eyeballs-out, delivers the best results.

Researchers at The European University in Madrid spent five months studying endurance athletes and found that those who did 80% of their training in Zone 1 and only 10% in Zone 2 improved times over a set distance by 36 seconds more than those spending 65% of their training time in Zone 1 and 24% in Zone 2. Both groups did around 8% of their weekly time in the top end Zone 3.

All the athletes, whatever their Z1, 2 or 3 proportions, got faster over the five months, but the group training smarter (less effort with more precise Z1 work) got 6.9% better, while the overzealous athletes got 5.3% better. Would you not like to get 1.6% faster but do fewer work wasted sessions?

Why excessive high intensity miles should be avoided

The scientists behind this study also think that their findings turn on its head the age old theory of junk miles – that lots of low intensity training is, basically, a waste of time. Instead, it could be an excess of the harder stuff that should be avoided.

“Our data suggest that an older concept of ‘junk miles’ applies not to relatively low-intensity training but to moderately high-intensity training,” said the researchers. It makes sense: moderately hard training is difficult to recover from, but not hard enough to stimulate further adaptation.

Of course, the study isn’t saying that simply pootling about will turn you into Mark Cavendish. You will still need to push yourself well out of your comfort zone from time to time and you can’t wave goodbye to hill reps and sprints just yet. But if you’re serious about improving your time-trial best or bagging a sportive personal best, make sure that you’re spending enough time in Zone 1 between the harder sessions. ...

All you need to do now is to strap on a heart rate monitor and find your comfort zone!

Source: BikeRadar.com/Road/Fitness/Technique/ by Joe Beer

Safe Cycling Tips

1. Do not ride on pavements unless there are signs permitting this.
2. Give lorries space and hold back -- a lorry might be turning at any corner. Never cut inside
3. Carry a good lock -- Try to lock the frame and wheels to an immovable object, preferably a bike stand
4. Cycle in different conditions -- a dry summer's day is perfect for cycling. As you discover how convenient cycling can be for everyday trips, you may find yourself cycling in different conditions.
5. Cycling at night is just as practical and brings all the same benefits as cycling by day. However there are some simple but important steps to ensure that you are both safe and within the law. Use lights at night
6. Dress for visibility by wearing bright, reflective clothing when cycling at night. A reflective jacket or waistcoat that slips over your coat will help to define your shape in the dark. Reflective patches, badges, tape and stickers can be applied anywhere on the bike or rider, and are recommended to maximise your visibility
7. Be alert at night -- it is easier to spot approaching cars because of their headlights but remember that you may be dazzled by lights on full beam
8. Ensure your bike is safe and check that your brakes, tyres, lights and steering are working properly
9. Ensure your bike is properly adjusted -- wrongly positioned saddles and handlebars are uncomfortable and inefficient.
10. Consider wearing a cycle helmet that meets current safety standards
11. Plan a route that suits your abilities if you have not ridden recently. You could also ride with someone who’s used to riding on the road to increase your confidence.

Source: Royal Kingston - Cycling

Six bicycle touring tips from Willie Weir

1. Touring bicyclists must first decide the type of trip they're planning -- either physical or cultural. He explains that you won't be able to soak up much local color if you're trying to knock out 100 miles a day.
2. Resist the temptation to buy the newest technology for your touring bike. Go for the tried and true. "The latest and greatest is going to have problems," he says. And repairs will be difficult because those hi-tech advances won't have made it to remote places you might travel.
3. Consider versatility when choosing a touring bike. Weir rides a mountain bike frame with 26-inch wheels. He says that because of the worldwide mountain bike craze, wherever you go on this planet you'll find 26-inch tires.
4. Don't bring every tool in the shop; they're heavy. Weir says to make sure you bike is in good working condition before you leave, then just carry the essentials.
5. Pack ahead of time and take all that stuff on a bike ride. Weir says that you'll often decide that you're carrying too much stuff, and you'll decide to lighten your load before leaving home.
6. Give before you take; establish a rapport with people before invading their space by taking their pictures. He says too often he sees tourists causing resentment by starting to shoot pictures in villages without really getting to know people.
   

Source : Biking Bis / photo from willieweir.com

The higher gear myth

With Around the Bay in a Day coming up everyone wants to know how to make their road bike perform better. Retailers are regularly approached by (often young male) customers who want to put “higher gears on their bike so that it will go faster”. They claim that even in top gear they are spinning their pedals so fast that they could speed up if only they could change to a higher gear. This is just plain untrue. Any rider who can spin the pedals at maximum revs in top gear on the flat for more than a few seconds at a time should be in Europe training for next year’s Tour de France.

How fast you travel is determined by the balance between how much power your body can generate and how much wind and rolling resistance you have to work against. More power or less wind resistance: you go faster. The power your legs generate has nothing to do with the gearing of the bike. It makes no difference whether you are pushing hard pedalling at 50 revolutions per minute (very slowly) or spinning the pedals at 110rpm (very fast), the power output will depend on how old you are, how fit and strong you are and how well you chose your parents. Unfortunately the only one of these which you can control is your fitness and strength, so increase your training, not your gearing.

A quick hint: An easy way to reduce the rolling resistance of your bike is to pump up your tyres. To make sure you waste as little as possible of the power of your legs lubricate your chain.

Source : Facts & Fictions- Bicycle Victoria

Cycling Tips

With the advent of 10 speed shifting, the overwhelmingly most popular choice for the 20 gears is 53 x 39 in the front with 12 - 25 in the back. In using this setup, feel free to run your 53 up to your 21t. But stay off the 23 and 25 except for very short periods. The sharp chain angle for these two cogs adds a lot of wear and tear as well as friction to the chain. And in your 39, try to stay away from your 12 and 13 tooth cogs even though this crossover is easier for the chain to handle than the wide crossovers on the big ring. For those of you running 9 speeds of 12 - 23, stay away from that 21 and 23 when you are on your 53, as well as the 12 and 13t on the 39.

Source : Bikyle.com/ photo from dkimages.com

Knee Injury Checklist : Are You At Risk?

Knee problems are caused by one of four things:

1. Riding too hard, too soon: Don’t get impatient. It’s going to be a long season. Pay attention to your body.

2. Riding too far: Your body is not a machine and cannot always cope with your ambitions. Increasing your average weekly kilometres by more than 60km over less than two to three weeks can put you at risk.

3. Spinning too slow: Save the big ring climbs and sprints for later. Get comfortable at high rpms and you’ll be flying when everyone else is at the physio.

4. Seat too low: It can feel powerful but it loads the patella and is probably the most common cause of knee pain.

If this info comes too late and your knees are already complaining, start your rehab!

Source: Australian Cyclist- Fitness.

Surviving a Thunderstorm

A PREPAREDNESS GUIDE for severe weather is published by the U.S. National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration/National Weather Service. The following is our adaptation of that guide to specifically address cyclist concerns. National Weather Service has reviewed and approved this adaptation.

In general . . .

• Cyclists on the road are most at risk from thunderstorms if they are under or near tall trees, are on or near hilltops, or are themselves high points on flat terrain (such as crossing an open field).
• Lightning often strikes outside of heavy rain and may occur as far as 10 miles away from any rainfall.
• Rubber-soled shoes and rubber tires provide NO protection from lightning.
• If you can hear thunder, you are close enough to the storm to be struck by lightning. Look for safe shelter immediately!
• When skies darken, look AND listen for increasing wind, flashes of lightning, sound of thunder
• Lightning remains a danger even when a thunderstorm is dissipating or has passed by.

When thunderstorms approach . . .

• If you are on a hill with exposure to the sky, try to head downhill, seeking out an overhanging bluff or a valley or ravine where you can lower your exposure.
• Move to a sturdy building or shelter if there is one within reach (such as an underpass, a large barn, a store or railroad station). Do not take shelter in small sheds or under isolated trees.
• However, get to higher ground if flash flooding is possible where you are (such as by a creek bed).

If caught outdoors and no shelter is nearby . . .

• Find a low spot away from trees, fences, and poles. Make sure the place you pick is not subject to flooding.
• If you are in the woods, take shelter under the shorter trees. (Lightning is more likely to strike the tallest trees.)
• If you feel your skin tingle or your hair stand on end, dismount fast, get away from your bike, and squat low to the ground on the balls of your feet. Place your hands on your knees with your head between them. Make yourself the smallest target possible, and minimize your contact with the ground.

Source : League of American Bicyclist. Photo courtesy of www.mark-ju.net.

The Danger of Being Right-Handed

Okay - quick. When you reach down for your water bottle to take a drink when riding, what hand do you use?

If you're like 90% of the population, you probably use your right hand. That is fine, except for the fact that your left hand is one that is then controlling the bike. And that means if you have to hit the brakes fast and hard in a quick emergency stop, you're going to be mashing down on your front brake only and can easily throw yourself right over the handlebars of the bike.

So, try to get in the habit of using your left hand when reaching for your water bottle, or fiddling with the zipper on your jacket, or whatever you might be doing when you're on your bike.

Just another bit of safety advice for you. It's a noble public service, I know, so please, no applause.

Source: About.com: Bicycling- David Fiedler

23 Tips for the Best Cycling

About 90 million American adults ride a bike at least once a year, nearly 30 million cycle regularly for recreation, and a few million even commute by bicycle, according to a recent article in American Demographics. Those numbers may rise in the next few years, thanks to federal legislation that encourages local communities to build cycling into their transit plans. That's good not only for the environment, but also for the nation's health, since cycling is one of the best forms of exercise around. It gives the heart and circulatory system a workout; it puts little stress on joints (except perhaps the knees); it can burn 400 to 700 calories per hour; and if you own a bike, cycling is free and can be done just about anywhere.

Here are some steps you can take to improve cycling performance, safety, comfort, and enjoyment:

Use your head

1. Absolutely crucial: always wear a helmet. Of the nation's 800 annual cycling deaths, head injuries account for about 60%. If all cyclists wore helmets, perhaps half of these deaths and injuries—especially in children—could be avoided. Choose a bright color, and make sure the helmet fits properly. It should sit horizontally on your head and shouldn't move about.

Do the right thing

2. Brake right. To exert optimal pressure, brake with your hands at the ends of the levers. For a quick stop, as you press the brakes firmly, slide your buttocks to the very back of the saddle. This will keep the rear of the bike down so that you don't flip over the handlebars.

3. On a long downhill, don't stay on your brakes. That may overheat the tire's rim and could cause a blowout. It's safest to "feather brake"—that is, tap the brakes, applying intermittent pressure. This is wise in wet weather, too.

4. Don't pedal in high gear for long periods. This can increase the pressure on your knees and lead to overuse injuries such as biker's knee. Shift to lower gears and faster revolutions to get more exercise with less stress on your knees. The best cadence for most cyclists is 60 to 80 revolutions per minute (rpm), though racers pedal in the range of 80 to 100 rpm.

5. Going uphill, shift gears to maintain normal cadence. On a long hill, conserve energy by staying in your seat.

6. When cycling at night or when visibility is poor, wear brightly colored, reflective clothing, and use your headlight. In fact, wearing bright colors is a good idea at any hour. Also consider a rear strobe-type light (attached to the bike or your belt) to enhance visibility at night.

Easy rider

7. Make sure your bike fits. Handlebars, saddle, wheels, gears, and brakes can all be adjusted to match your size and riding ability, but the frame has to fit from the start. To find the right frame size, straddle the bike and stand flatfooted: on a road bike, there should be one to two inches of clearance between your groin and the top tube. On a mountain bike, the clearance should be two to three inches or even more.

8. Position the saddle right to protect your knees. At the bottom of the stroke, your knee should be only slightly bent. If your knee is bent too much, the seat is too low, and you will lose stroking power and strain your knees. If the knee locks when extended, or if you have to reach for the pedal, the seat is too high, which can also stress the knee. The saddle should be level.

9. Position the handlebars correctly—one inch lower than the top of the seat. Drop handlebars (preferable because they allow you to change your riding position) should be about as wide as your shoulders or slightly narrower. Some cyclists who suffer from neck or back discomfort may prefer upright handlebars.

10. To avoid saddle soreness, get the right seat. The hard narrow seats on racing bikes can be particularly uncomfortable for women, who tend to have widely spaced "sit bones." Special anatomically designed saddles—wider and more cushioned at the back—are easy to install. Gel-filled saddles or pads or sheepskin pads can ease the pressure and friction.

11. Change your hand and body position frequently. That will change the angle of your back, neck, and arms, so that different muscles are stressed and pressure is put on different nerves.

12. Don't ride in the racing "drop" position (with your hands on the curved part of the handlebars) for a long time. This may cramp your hands, shoulders, and neck.

13. Unless you're an experienced cyclist, don't use those special aerodynamic handlebars—shaped like an upside-down "V"—which let you lean forward on your forearms and thus reduce wind drag and increase your speed. These increase the risk of injury.

14. After a long uphill, don't coast downhill without pedaling. As you climb up the hill, lactic acid builds up in your muscles and can contribute to muscle soreness. By pedaling lightly but constantly while coasting downhill (even if there's little resistance) you can help remove the lactic acid.

15. Keep your arms relaxed and don't lock your elbows. This technique helps you absorb bumps from the road better.

16. Wear the right shorts if you cycle a lot. Sleek cycling shorts have less fabric to wrinkle or bunch up, so there's less chance of skin irritation. For extra protection, choose cycling shorts with special lining or padding to wick away perspiration and no seams at the crotch.

17. Don't wear headphones. They can block out the street sounds you need to hear in order to ride defensively. Cycling with headphones is a misdemeanor in some areas.

Good road sense

18. Ride with traffic, obey all signs, and give right of way to cars.

19. Use hand signals to alert drivers to your intentions.

20. Try to make eye contact with drivers as you pull into an intersection or make a turn, so they know your intentions and you know that they've seen you.

21. Don't ride side by side with another cyclist.

22. Watch out for storm drains, cattle guards, and rail-road tracks. They're all slippery when wet. And if you don't cross them at a right angle, your front tire may get caught.

23. When cycling in heavy traffic, on a narrow road, or on winding downhill roads, ride in the lane with the cars, not to the side, where you're not as visible and may get pushed off to the side. Of course, if a car wants to pass, move out of the way.

Source: Foundations of Wellness, wellnessletter.com

Safety Cycling Tips for Group Riding

Here is some tips on cycling etiquette, or rules of the road, which should to be followed for safety. Here are the key ideas:

Teamwork - Give a helping hand, watch for problems (loose straps, loose equipment), and help each other to be safe and enjoy the ride.

Be Predictable - Group riding requires even more attention to predictability than riding alone. Other riders expect you to ride straight, at a constant speed, unless you indicate differently.

Communicate - Use hand and verbal signals to communicate with members of the group and with other traffic.

Hand Signals - Hand signals for turning and stopping are as follows: Left are straight out to signal a left turn. Left arm out and down with you palm to the rear to signal slowing or stopping. And, for a right turn, put your right arm straight out (in areas where this is legal) or put your left arm out and bent up.

Verbal Warnings - Along with hand signals, verbally warn cyclists behind you of your changes in direction or speed. The lead rider should call out "left turn," "right turn," "slowing," stopping," etc. Announce a turn well in advance of the intersection, so that members of the group have time to position themselves properly.

Announce Hazards - When riding in a tight group, most of the cyclists do not have a good view of the road surface ahead, so it is important to announce holes, gravel, grates, and other hazards. Indicate road hazards by pointing down to the left or right, and by shouting "hole," "bump," etc., where required for safety. Everyone in a group should be made aware of hazards. However, not everyone needs to announce them.

Change Positions Correctly - Generally, slow traffic stays right, so you should try to pass others on their left. Say "on your left" to warn the cyclist ahead that you are passing. If you need to pass someone on the right, say "on your right" clearly since this is an unusual maneuver.

Watch For Traffic Coming From The Rear - Even when you are occupying the proper lane position, it often helps to know when a car is coming. Since those in front cannot see traffic approaching from the rear, it is the responsibility of the riders in back to inform the others by saying "car back." Around curves, on narrow roads, or when riding double, it is also helpful to warn of traffic approaching from the front with "car up."

Watch Out At Intersections - When approaching intersections requiring vehicles to yield or stop the lead rider will say "slowing" or "stopping" to alert those behind to the change in speed. Each cyclist is responsible for verifying that the way is clear before enter the intersection.

Leave A Gap for Cars - When riding up hills or on narrow roads where you are impeding faster traffic, leave a gap for cars between every three or four bicycles. This way motorists can take advantage of shorter passing intervals and eventually move piecemeal around the entire group.

Move Off the Road When You Stop - Whether you are stopping because of mechanical problems or to regroup with you companions, move well off the road so you don't interfere with traffic. It is usually best for the lead rider to pull forward in the stopping area and for other riders to pull in behind the rider in front of them. When you start up again, each cyclist should look for, and yield to, traffic.

Ride One Or Two Across - Ride single file or double file as appropriate to the roadway and traffic conditions and where allowed by law. Even where riding double is legal, courtesy dictates that you single up when cars are trying to pass you if the lane is wide enough for them to safely do so.

Wait At Turns - If the group becomes at all separated, even by a few dozen meters, someone should wait at the turn until the next rider arrives at the intersection, and so on until all riders have made the turn.

Two At The End - For safety and as a courtesy, if the group spreads out, the last two people should adjust their speed to ride as a pair. If either should need assistance they will have a helping hand.

Source: International Bicycle Fund