Manali-Leh; The Story (Part 3)

view at Jispa

We had a long rest in Keylong to recover from the previous day's long ride from Rohtang. So we started late at 12.00 noon from Keylong and rode 21km to a very nice village called Jispa.

preparing to cross the stream

It was a very short ride because at 4.00pm, with my speed, I don't think that we can reach Darcha or Patseo before it's getting dark. At this time I had very hard time to cope with my friend's speed.My cough started getting worst since we reached Keylong. I noticed that when the weather getting colder, my cough will worsen. And I started to take Decolgen in Keylong & Jispa because my body temperature was shooting up. At the same time, I retook my Blood Pressure pills instead of the Acetazolamide for Altitude Sickness because I though that riding to Keylong and Jispa made my heart work too hard. In Jispa, I felt sick and was really in bad shaped. And I don't know why, suddenly I thought of my parent and how worry they are. It really made me sad.The next day, we rode to Patseo. It's a 24km climb to a small settlement of parachute tent of Hozer cafe. Again, my speed was very slow and we had to cross 2 quite deep streams before reaching Patseo. There is a small tear-shaped lake near the tent with beautiful scenery at the background. In fact, I think this stretch offer the most scenic view from all angle.

view from Hozer Cafe at Patseo. Road to Zing Zing Bar

view from Hozer Cafe at Patseo. Road from Darcha

We stayed in the parachute tent for Rs.150 per person. The tent can fill up to 10 people on sharing basis. While resting and unpacking our stuff from the bicycle. The 3 cyclist from England whom we met while riding up to Marrhi, arrived. They too decided to stay at Patseo on that day. So 5 of us shared the parachute tent.Unfortunately, when the temperature getting lower, as expected my cough became worsen. The guys from England noticed it and asked me if I 'm having AMS. I said No. Because I don't have any sign of Altitude sickness i.e headache, nausea and dizziness. But later on I noticed that I have been losing my appetite and had difficulty of sleeping. And the worst was having the dry cough which according to the guys is the sign of HAPE. It came across my mind also that I did not pee during riding even though I drank about 3 liter of water every day. But I never mention this to anyone. Stupid move.

the lake at Patseo

The guys advice me to go down to lower level to recover. It really made me very uncomfortable when sharing the tent with these guys because I felt like they were observing me. So, I have to walk slow, do things slowly in order to lower my breathing sound. It doesn't help at all. And the next day, I felt much better and when asked by the guys about my condition, I gave them thumbs up. They left early after breakfast to head to Sarchu. Because by this time, all of us actually had 6 days to reach Leh and catch our flight back to our countries.

view of Hozer Cafe when coming from the road

the parachute tent

view of inside of the parachute tent

So by 9.00am, we left Patseo to cross Baralacha La via Zing Zing Bar. But before that we heard that there is a deep river after Zing Zing Bar that we need to cross. Unfortunately, after reaching the Lower Zing Zing Bar near the BRO Workers Camp, I went bonked! I have no more legs to go on. I was struggling to even ride 10m. So after 1 week of pushing and dragging myself riding on this route, I finally surrendered to Baralacha La. We stopped at the BRO Camp hoping to get any lift to take me to Sarchu for medical treatment at the military hospital. My friend said that he still feeling strong to finish the ride. So, not to slowing him down because the ride to Sarchu is still very far away, I quickly decided to go down to Patseo by myself. So, sun blocked handed over to him, he move on. I waited until he is lost from my sight, suddenly I have the urge to continue ride and chase him but my legs just lost it. So with heavy feeling, I ride down to Patseo alone.

road to Zing Zing Bar & Baralacha La

heading back to Patseo